The Path Less Travelled

The Bewitching Beauty of Siquijor

Salagdoong Beach in Maria, Siquijor

If there is one thing about Siquijor that makes it enchanting, is its reputation of witchcraft and sorcery that has kept most people away from this mystical island.  True, this small island is famous for its magic potions, healers and sorcerers ( locally called mambabarang or mangkukulam). 

Located at the Central Visayas region, Siquijor is the third smallest island province in the country, consisting only of six towns : Siquijor, Larena, Lazi, Maria, San Juan and Enrique Villanueva. 

The place is also fondly called Isla del Fuego or Island of Fire because of its myriad of fireflies that come out every night and gather  on molave trees. They form an eerie glow from afar, like that of fire. Thus the place was called as such.

Siquijor can rarely be found on most travellers' adventure list.  Often  skipped because of its reputation for being a haven for sorcerers, yet those who dared and took a leap of faith to come to this  island were rewarded by its bewitching beauty that remains untouched.

I was one of those bold travellers who have visited Siquijor on one hot summer. Upon embarking from the fastcraft at the Port of Siquijor, I have noticed that the province really has protected its natural resources from commercialism despite of influx of tourist recently. The waters at the port is so clear that you can see the white sand bed below. There were also a lot of small fishes swimming around.

Having been able to talked with a local ( a habal-habal driver who assisted  and brought us to Salagdoong in Maria for a minimum fare), they say that their place is often misunderstood. If you are looking for broomsticks, boiling cauldrons or  that witch oil, you will never find it here. What they have here are healers, who use ancient traditions of folk medicine using herbs and roots. This is also common in other parts of the country anyway.  I have learned that during Lenten Season, these folk healers from other parts of the country mostly from Visayas and Mindanao; would come here in Siquijor (particularly in San Antonio) with their herbs and roots to concoct their healing oils. They are locally called mananambal. And this is where the wrong notion of this island came about. The reputation of being a haven for witches, sorcerers and occult practitioners.

You see, those who practice this dark ways are called mambabarang. Which is also true as I have learned.  If you want to cast a curse on someone like your enemy, or  if you are so obsessed with someone you loved, and you want a love potion, then this is the place for you.. But the price for this is quite costly.

Nevertheless, as one of those who had the daring decision to visit Siquijor, I have found that the people here are actually friendly and religious. This is evident by the presence of century old Catholic churches like the St. Francis of Assisi Church at the  capital town proper and  the San Isidro Labrador Church and Convent in Lazi.

Now if you are looking for a real escape from the urban life, or for pristine white sand beaches comparable to that of Boracay or Palawan, you'll have it here in Siquijor.

The best way to go around the island is by habal-habal or motorbike. One can tour the entire island within a day with a breathtaking view.

The town of San Juan has a number of resorts and dive sites  like :

1. Coco Grove Beach Resort
2. Coral Cay Beach Resort
3. Tagot Shoal Sunken Island
4. Tubod Sanctuary
5. Maite Dive Site

Plus, this is where most visitors stay overnight because of the reason that it is facing the west, and so  you will have a fantastic view of the sunset.

Salagdoong Beach in Maria is also another tourist favorite. (This is were I stayed.) Though not as equally beautiful than those beaches in San Juan, it has a cliff jump that adds to the fun of tourists. Personally, I love the local friendliness here. The resort crew are accomodating.

If you like a beach paradise atmosphere, then you'll like it here. Its crystal clear blue waters, white sand, and the laid back lifestyle is truly bewitching. It's hard not to fall in love with a place like this.

I just hope that the people of Siquijor will continue to protect and preserve their enchanting place so that it will always be a bewitching paradise for its visitors.