When I was in my teenage years, my knowledge about Iloilo was only confined to La Paz Batchoy, Pancit Molo, and the Nuestra Senora de Candelaria of Jaro. I didn't know about Dinagyang yet then.
Fast forward. I was working already in a private company, when suddenly I was told that I will be assigned in Western Visayas. And this gave me the eagerness to know more and discover what is Iloilo beyond the three things I have mentioned.
Right in the middle of the Philippine Archipelago is an old yet dynamic city called Iloilo. Due to its geographical location, Iloilo is said to be the heart of the Philippines, and thus labeled as " The City of Love". Unlike the grueling Metro Manila, Iloilo is more relaxed. It is a perfect place for those who want to take things easy and get things done without too much stress.
For first-time visitors, Iloilo City may seemed like being turned back into the past as the city boasts of well-preserved old buildings, churches, plazas, and houses from the Spanish era. At the same time, modern infrastructures complement these heritage structures. To quote from one article I have read, "Its a place where the classic, the colonial and the contemporary co-exist and complement one another."
One visitor may ask : What and where are the things here that are deserving of admiration and worth to tell a story to others?
My answer are these things that I have seen, discovered, experienced and learned from my years of stay in this vibrant cosmopolitan city in Western Visayas.
Heritage and History :
Ilongos have a strong sense of heritage and history. While other cities and provinces in the country idea of development is by demolishing old structures regardless of its historical significance to replace it with modern ones, Iloilo City takes pride of preserving Spanish era edifices that have historical value. Indeed, these significant heritage structures tells about the flourish of this city during the Spanish colonial period that was way ahead compared to other provinces and cities .
For instance is Calle Real. It is called the Escolta of Iloilo where premier commercial establishments are located. Then the Old Provincial Capitol Building, formerly known as Casa Real. And the Arroyo Fountain. Up to Plaza Libertad, sorrounded by old pre-war buildings.
You will also be amazed by heritage houses and mansions that abound in the city. Here are some of those:
1. Nelly's Mansion. This mansion was built in 1928 by Don Vicente Lopez and his wife Dona Elena Hofilena. The mansion is one of the most instragrammable structure in the city.
2. Lizares Mansion. Probably the most beautiful I have seen in Iloilo so far. Built in 1937 by Don Emiliano Lizares. At present, it is a chapel of the Angelicum School of Iloilo.
3. Molo Mansion. Built in 1920's, it was formerly owned by the Lacson-Yusay family. Now, it is owned by SM and turned into a souvenir shop.
4. Casa Mariquit. This house was built by Fernando Lopez Sr. for his wife Maria .
All of these structures are now being promoted as a tourist destination.
Century Old Churches :
Most of the towns in Iloilo have superb century old churches.
1. Jaro Metropolitan Cathedral ( St. Elizabeth of Hungary Church). This is the National Shrine of Our Lady of Candles or Nuestra Senora de Candelaria, and the center of Catholicism in Western Visayas. It houses the limestone image of the Our Lady of Candles, displayed at the balcony above the facade doors of the cathedral.
One peculiar thing about this church is its statues of Jesus Christ's apostles, attached on the columns inside the church. Hence, it is called the "masculine church" because it houses only male saints.
Built between 1869 and 1874, for me ; this is the second most beautiful church in Iloilo. And this is where I usually go to hear mass every Sunday.
2. St. Anne Parish Church. Built in Gothic-Renaissance style in 1831, this church in Molo district is a famous landmark here in Iloilo. It features two belfries with spires .
The church houses all female saints in contrast of that in Jaro Cathedral where its all male saints, hence called a feminist church. The retablo features St. Anne, the patroness of Molo.
This is probably the most beautiful church here in Iloilo.
3. San Jose de Placer Parish Church. This church was first constructed in 1873 but its structure was rebuilt and improved over the centuries. It is the site of the annual religious sadsad or merrymaking every January during the Dinagyang Festival.
4. Our Lady of Peace and Good Voyage Church. The Nuestra Senora De La Paz Y Buen Viaje Church in La Paz district. Completed in 1895, the church was damaged during World War II and earthquake. Hence, only its facade survived. The interior of the church is one of the most beautiful in Iloilo City painted in navy blue and gold.
5. Sto. Nino de Arevalo Church. This church houses the third oldest image of Sto. Nino in the country - called Sto. Nino de Arevalo ( 1581) after the Sto. Ninos of Cebu ( 1521) and Tondo ( 1572). The church is already of modern design since the original structure was destroyed by natural and man-made calamities.
The Textile Capital of the Philippines :
Iloilo was once the Textile Capital of the country. Nowadays, places like Arevalo, Oton and Miag-ao produce that hablon fabric which is now famous as a pasalubong product aside from using it on cultural shows and exhibits.
Cultures, Customs and Traditions :
Many culural festivals are held each year in Iloilo. The most famous of which is the Dinagyang held every 4th Sunday of January. Followed by the Jaro Fiesta in February 02 in honor of the patroness of Western Visayas, the Nuestra Senora de Candelaria. This is where the typical town fiesta in most parts of the country is very much alive.
Next is the Paraw Regatta, a sports tourism event where the sailboat race is the main highlight.
Ilongo Cuisine :
Ilongos love to eat. They would always invite you to dine with them as a way of entertaining visitors. This is also common in other parts of the country.
The culinary pride of the Ilongos is undoubtfully the La Paz Batchoy. A local noodle dish with pork innards simmered in broth topped with pork cracklings. This is perfect for merienda with Puto. But, a gentle reminder to those with hypertension as this is high in cholesterol content so be cautious.
Pancit Molo is another popular dish. A wanton soup with pork dumplings, green onions and garlic. This is usually perfect during rainy season.
Then Ilongos love anything that is grilled. Wether chicken, pork or fish. Grilling is common here like on a daily basis, unlike in other places where grilling is usually done during outing events. A great testimony to this is grilled chicken of Mang Inasal, which originated here in Iloilo.
They also have a version of the famous lechon manok. You can find the best tasting one in Tatoy's Manokan in Villa Arevalo where they only use native chicken.
There's another one which I have tasted for the first time in Cabatuan, Iloilo. It's called Chicken Tinuom. It is a soup dish wrapped in banana leaves where its main ingredient is a native chicken cutted in small pieces and marinated in tomatoes, garlic, onions and lemon grass. Tinuom is a local term meaning wrapped or balot.
Other famous Ilongo dishes has Spanish influence like the Arroz Valenciana or Paella. This one amused me, since in my hometown, paella is usually served only during fiestas or any family occassions, yet here it is sold in the sidestreets along with the other filipino kakanins.
And speaking of kakanin, you may want to try the Ilongo's bayi-bayi.
When it comes to dessert, Iloilo have biscocho, butterscotch, barquillos, bibingka, and much more. Breads and pastries abound, you will find a bakery in every block of the streets.
Other local fastfood restaurants include Robertos, taking pride of its famous King Siopao. Another one is JD. A bakeshop and serving other meals for dine in or take out.
Least not to forget the various restaurants serving seafood specialties and talaba ( oyster) which is abundant in this place.
Most Manilenyos would ask, are there shopping malls in the province? Which I would always give a raised brow. Iloilo, Cebu and Davao are highly urbanized cities more than you think. All leading shopping and lifestyle malls in the Mega Manila like SM, Robinsons, Ayala, Megaworld, etc. are also all here in what typical Manilenios call "province". Though these cities that I have mentioned may not yet have the skyscrapers like that in Makati, Ortigas or BCG, but they are not far behind in terms of infrastructure, facilities, and even in the standards of living. I would say, Iloilo is even better than Metro Manila. Neither Cebu or Cagayan de Oro. Iloilo is traffic disciplined, has wide streets and highways, well-lit pavements and very clean. Plus, Iloilo City has bicycle lanes on the city's main highways. Thus, being dubbed as the Biking Capital of the Philippines.
Now if you think it is only Manila that can have the best nightlife to offer, it's already foregone. Iloilo has a lot of restobars, disco, videoke and live bands. Just walk around Smallville in Mandurriao, Festive walk parade in Megaworld, or at Atria and you will find some place that suits your taste. These places are the places to go for night outs and parties with friends and families.
More than a decade ago, there where no Starbucks here yet. But Iloilo has a locally grown coffee shop which is not only cheaper but also tastes good and can match that of Starbucks coffee. Plus the ambience is also cool. It is called Coffee Break.
For the health enthusiasts, Iloilo Esplanade is the place suitable for jogging, exercise or just plain strolling. Plus the zumba sessions every morning or late afternoon.
Now here's my favorite part. The province of Iloilo is endowed with captivating beaches and marine sanctuaries. Many of them are not as famous as Boracay but there natural beauty are a sight to behold. The northern part of Iloilo has fine white sand beaches with torquoise clear waters while the southern part offers gray sand beaches and marine sanctuaries.
Some of these best beaches can be found in the islands of Concepcion and Carles to the north while San Joaquin to the south.
The city's modern day appearance is the result of the tireless effort of the local government to make Iloilo the most livable city in the country.
All I can say is the city of Iloilo is not all about the place. It's about the people who takes pride of its history and heritage , maintains its cleanliness, and continues to improve for the better.
Credits and Gratitude to the Rightful Owner of some of the photos.
